This article will will help you get into outdoor bouldering if you have never known where to go, plus we’re here to help you plan your bouldering trip to Australia.
Australia has some of the best sport climbing and traditional climbing in the world. It’s the bouldering that is catching everyone’s attention now though. Bouldering is rock climbing in its purest form and requires only minimal equipment, shoes, bouldering pad and chalk.
Australia has over 75 bouldering gyms and they are all booming. This is because it’s easy to for anyone to try with a moderate level of fitness.
Bouldering gyms generate 1000’s of new people to the sport every month, 5% of these people will go outdoor bouldering. The lucky 5% of the indoor boulderers who venture outdoor bouldering get to have the full experience of the sport.
Nothing beats fresh air, quality rock, and being with friends in the great outdoors. Australia is an ancient continent, we have been blessed to have an abundance of compact and strong rock. These consist of all different high-quality rock types such as: sedimentary, igneous and metamorphic. Australia is opportune place for a rock climber or boulderer to be.
Australia’s surface rock is predominantly sandstone, and is considered the best rock for climbing because of the varied features it contains. Quartzite, a metamorphic sandstone, (i.e. sandstone that has been converted into solid quartz rock), contains all the premium features of sandstone whilst having bomber strength.
Climb hard, tread lightly, touch the rock and have fun. You can find more out here https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/areas
Let’s have a look at the best bouldering crags in Australia.
THE GRAMPIANS
Grampians is without a doubt the best bouldering on earth. The scale, variety and quality is not surpassed anywhere else. We’re not saying that other amazing places don’t exist, we just don’t think they are as good.
The Grampians- Gariwerd, as it’s known to local Djab Warrung and Jardwajali people is a very special place. It’s the compact sandstone rock that makes this place the most sacred place on earth to boulderers. It has an infinite number of free-standing boulders that sit just under Taipan wall and go for 100’s of kilometers south.
The Northern Grampians around Mt Staplyton is the highest concentration of accessible bouldering. It has amazing caves that have just enough holds to make plenty of 3-star boulder problems. Once you look into the rock labyrinth of the Grampians you understand the scale of this place, with around 900 starred problems. https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/grampians
MOUNT ARAPILES
Mount Arapiles- Dyurrite as it is known by local Jardwadjali people. Arapiles usual drawcard is perfect rock and some of the best trad-climbing in world, but it’s the bouldering that gets overlooked. Arapiles is a true bouldering paradise and easily ranks among the best in the world. It’s unique orange, black, white quartzite is the best rock in Australia and arguably the world. The hold shapes are infinite at Mount Arapiles. The Pines Campground at Arapiles is Australia’s unique version of Yosemite’s Camp 4. The Golden Streak boulder featuring the Golden Streak problem (V2) in Arapiles is the equivalent version of Yosemite’s Midnight Lightning (V8). Bouldering at Arapiles has great access with a walk of less than 200 meters, who doesn’t want to climb on perfect rock. Just 8km from Natimuk, Victoria 3409
NOWRA BOULDERING
People say that nobody goes to Nowra for scenery or to do easy stuff, people go to Nowra to climb hard.
Nowra is one of the best sport climbing crags in Australia and with Bomaderry Creek crags being so steep it’s no wonder it has over 300 boulder problems; featuring mostly steep, powerful bouldering with dynamic moves to nice juggy highly compact sandstone. Occasionally you’ll find bits of conglomerate and calcite, the best part is without doubt Lot 33. With Nowra only two hours south of Sydney it’s a great place for a bouldering weekend, Nowra has all the amenities including, camping and the mighty Shoalhaven river and nearby beaches, such as 7 Mile and Hyams beach.
SYDNEY BOULDERING
It doesnt matter if you live in Sydney or just visiting, it’s almost certain there is 3-star bouldering nearby.
There is currently 5,947 boulder problems listed on https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/new-south-wales-and-act/sydney-metropolitan in Sydney and that number is sure to grow, even though we thought it was tapped out years ago. The Sydney sandstone bouldering has a very urban feel about it, but it can still be pristine bushland just behind houses or on the sandy beach. Sydney has everything from powerful roof bouldering to thin, crimpy, vertical highball stuff. So if you’re downunder make sure you check out the Sydney outdoor bouldering before heading off to the other world class crags.
CANBERRA/ACT
With so much focus on sandstone in Australia we had to show you some granite bouldering and it’s pretty good too. Although the Canberra granite bouldering is scattered across various woodlands there is plenty to do at each area. The Crag has all the areas listed but https://canberraclimbing.org.au/bouldering-guides/ has topo maps for some of the areas.
If you plan a bouldering trip to Australia, certainly Canberra can easily be incorporated when travelling to or from Nowra.
QUEENSLAND BOULDERING
Since most people would think Queensland is too hot for bouldering we thought we should mention some good options. Generally Queensland bouldering depends on the time of year and location.
We think Passchendaele is the best bouldering crag in Queensland, with rounded granite boulders densely packed in the shade of the Australian bush. It’s ideal conditions for trying hard.
The Queensland summer weather can be rather overwhelming, so our pick would have to be Magnetic Island bouldering for late spring, summer and early autumn. Cool off between boulder sectors with a swim at one of the glorious beaches on Magnetic Island. https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/townsville/area/11818117
TASMANIA
The huge selection on offer in Tasmania makes it one the best areas in the world for new bouldering. Surprisingly there’s over 2000 established problems, hence you won’t be far from good bouldering while looking for new stuff.
Tassie has pretty good bouldering weather except July and August, as the conditions are quite cold. However, the boulders in Tassie are very picturesque and there is always unclimbed blocs in the background of popular photos, so much potential for new projects.
NORTHERN TERRITORY
Northern territory is a unique area with minimal documented and accessible bouldering, however ★★★ Rising Sun V5, is good enough to make any boulderer think there is more just like it, lurking in the untapped and mysterious dreamtime boulder lands of the Northern Territory. https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/northern-territory has all the known routes, feel free to add to what’s here.
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
If you have been wondering what the bouldering is like over in Western Australia you wouldn’t be alone.
Despite WA not being on most peoples radar, it has a thriving outdoor bouldering scene. To discover more about exact locations in this area please refer to https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/western-australia
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
South Australia has a variety of bouldering, featuring the crags like The Bachelor Pad just a short 20 minute drive from Adelaide CBD. If you are willing to travel a little further inland, there is quality bouldering hidden among the quartzite of Moonarie, we’re sure many more new problems will develop from this area.
For all your outdoor/indoor bouldering in Australia needs check out the range here on our website. https://clubstrong.com.au/products/
Find all guidebooks for bouldering in Australia here https://www.climbinganchors.com.au/
Good grip comes from good chalk and know you can rely on CLUB STRONG Block Chalk, get it here https://clubstrong.com.au/product/chalk-block/